Bix stripper8/12/2023 We also need to work on fitting the doors to the openings and mortising the hinges, but that comes later. We're still working on stripping the double doors and hope to have that post up later this week. This was a lot of effort to strip and fix one door, but the door is quite beautiful. A quick shave and sand of the dowels and they are flush with the door. Once everything had dried up, the door is now as solid and stable as the day it was made. This would give the dowels enough hold into the tenons of the pieces, without exposing the holes to the weather outside. The holes don't go all of the way through the door, just about 3/4 of the way. With the joints glued up, I used my cabinet clamps to secure the whole door from side to side, then drilled two holes into each mortise around the door. To fix this, I decided to pull it apart a little bit more, re-glue the joints as best as I could, then clamp the door together and install some dowels at each point. If you picked the door up and held it vertical, similar to the way it would hang on hinges, the whole thing would sag and separate a bit. The last major thing we needed to fix on the entry door before we would be able to hang it was the fact that the joints had failed. It was a long process, and one that took its toll on my hands (I'm so thankful for good work gloves), but the end results are 40 pieces of completely bare and nicely painted door panel molding, just waiting to be re-installed. In order to finish this paint removal job, I used the heat gun to remove the stubborn paint that had held on, and then sanded each piece with '1' and then '000' steel wool. The Peel Away does a good job of paint removal, but all of these pieces had some intricate details that held onto bits of paint. (I'm shaking my head while writing this.) After a couple of hours we had the first side fully stripped, and it looked pretty good. In retrospect, I wish I would have used Peel Away 7 or something similar on this piece, but I guess I was in a bit of a masochistic mood that day. Because of the large flat areas of the door, I opted to use the heat gun to do the majority of this stripping. With the molding removed, we moved onto stripping the door and its panels. I also pulled the nails from the back of the wood, which left little external evidence of the nail on the surface. Again, slowly and carefully, with the piece I was removing the nails from laying firmly on the table, otherwise I would have put too much force on the piece of wood and it would have broken. Once all of the pieces had been lifted, I removed all of the tiny nails with my nail pullers. We have 40 pieces of molding that we needed to keep track of and strip, so this was an essential part of the process. This means that is the Outside, Middle, Right piece of molding. So you can see in the photo above, the small piece on the right is labeled O M R. I used O = Outside, I = Inside, TL = Top Left, TR = Top Right, M = Middle, BL = Bottom Left, BR = Bottom Right, L = Left, and R = Right. I used a simple lettering system that noted SIDE OF DOOR, LOCATION OF PANEL, LOCATION IN PANEL. This way I could be sure to put all of the pieces back in their correct locations. As I removed each piece, I would label the back of the piece of molding, using pencil, with it's original location on the door.
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